Why do vegans eat fake meat? Because the objection was never the taste

Because veganism objects to exploiting animals, not to the taste of meat. The Vegan Society defines it as seeking to exclude the exploitation of animals as far as is possible and practicable, and the same definition promotes the development and use of animal-free alternatives. A pea burger is one. The question is whether to call it meat.

On that, the dictionary is more relaxed than the state of Missouri. Merriam-Webster’s first sense of meat is plain food, solid food as distinguished from drink, which it dates to before the 12th century; a second part of that sense covers the edible part of something inside a husk or shell, so a coconut has meat. Animal flesh only arrives in sense 2. Missouri’s statutes start from the other end. They define meat as any edible portion of a livestock, poultry or captive cervid carcass, and since August 2018 they have barred anyone advertising or selling all or part of a carcass or food plan from misrepresenting a product as meat that is not derived from harvested production livestock or poultry. Tofurky and the Good Food Institute challenged that provision. In 2021 the Eighth Circuit upheld the refusal of a preliminary injunction, because on the seven Tofurky labels before it, with words like “vegetarian,” “veggie” and “all vegan” on them, the law was unlikely to apply at all. So the label says plants, the courts found the law didn’t reach a label like that, and meat in the dictionary’s first sense never needed an animal anyway. If the bigger question is what vegans eat in place of meat in general, our guide to replacing meat covers the beans and the tofu as well as the burgers.

What the definition asks, and what it doesn’t

The Vegan Society puts the dietary part plainly. Veganism means dispensing with all products derived wholly or partly from animals. The test there is where an ingredient came from, not what the finished food reminds you of. Its own page makes the same point from the other side, saying that favorite foods from curry to cake can suit a vegan diet if they’re made with plant-based ingredients. Pizza doesn’t stop being pizza when the cheese is cashew.

So the honest answer to “why do vegans eat fake meat?” is mostly the boring one: for the same reasons anyone eats anything. FDA’s January 2025 draft guidance on labeling these foods, which is nonbinding and not yet final, lists among the reasons people buy them dietary choices such as vegan or vegetarian diets, allergies, taste preferences, religious practices and environmental concerns. Vegans share one line of that list with vegetarians. If you grew up on burgers and sausages, still liking the shape of a meal built around them betrays nothing. Liking a flavor was never the thing veganism asked anyone to give up. A sausage that never involved a pig asks for nothing the definition rules out.

The strongest case against it

The strongest argument against fake meat is one a vegan could make, and it deserves a straight hearing. A product built to imitate meat keeps meat at the center of the plate. It tells everyone, vegans included, that animal flesh is the standard and plants are the stand-in. On this view, a vegan dinner should look like lentils, tofu and vegetables on their own terms, and the movement does better showing that food than copying the food it objects to.

The second part of the argument is about money. Buying the product can send money to the industry you’re trying to leave. Maple Leaf Foods, which says it offers meat products and plant-based protein options, lists Maple Leaf, Schneiders and Greenfield Natural Meat Co. among its brands, with Field Roast and LightLife next to them. A sausage from that shelf with no animal ingredients is still vegan. The company that made it also sells the other kind.

The labeling argument, that names like burger and sausage mislead shoppers, is the weakest of the three, and FDA doesn’t go that far. Its draft guidance says plant-based foods aren’t necessarily precluded from using the names of animal-derived foods, so long as the labeling isn’t misleading, and it recommends naming the plant source, as in “Black Bean Mushroom Veggie Patties”. It also recommends against using only “vegan” or “meat-free” as a product’s name, because that doesn’t say what the food is made of. That is a request for more information on the front of the pack, and label readers are the last people who should mind. Missouri’s 2018 guidance on its law also covered products grown in a lab, which it said it would not refer for prosecution with a prominent “lab-grown” type qualifier and a statement like “grown in a lab”. Lab meat is a different argument again, and our piece on whether vegans should eat lab-grown meat has it.

Where I land

Eat it if you like it. The definition’s test is what a food is made from, and a pea protein burger with no animal ingredients passes it. The keeps-meat-at-the-center argument is a fair point about what a movement shows people, and it’s a reason to cook beans and tofu as themselves, often. It isn’t a reason to feel guilty about a sausage on a Saturday.

The money question is one where vegans can reasonably draw different lines, and I don’t think one of them is settled fact. Our line is that a vegan product from a company that also sells meat is still a vegan product, and choosing a plant-only maker when the food is just as good is a reasonable preference, not a rule. The part I’m least sure about is the imitation argument. Whether eating burgers that copy beef keeps beef as the default in people’s heads, or slowly makes plants the default instead, is something none of the sources I read for this piece measured. If you’ve switched between the two kinds of vegan dinner yourself, you probably have a better sense of it than I do. For what is actually in those burgers and sausages, our look at how vegan meat is made reads the ingredient lists.

Sources

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Tara Weaver
Tara Weaver

Tara has been vegan since 2012. She cooks for fun, invents dishes for the site and has tried more vegan beauty products than she can count. She writes about beauty and personal care, fashion and materials, everyday vegan living, the ethics debates and the recipes. No formal training, plenty of practice, and a firm belief that dinner should taste good first.